We are so excited that John & Sherry over at Young House Love were able to find a great swing arm lamp at our Decorating Outlet for John’s sister Emily’s nursery makeover! Check out the post here!

Photos courtesy of Young House Love
Whether you are decorating a college dorm or a first apartment, style, price and function should be your main considerations. With the exception of the kitchen and bathroom, one watt of light per square foot (1/5 for fluorescent and for halogen), with the addition of task lighting (reading, studying, needlework) should provide sufficient lighting. Task lights include floor lamps, desk lamps, table lamps and swing arm wall lamps. We offer lots of styles and themes, including nautical, rustic, chic, contemporary, hip, traditional, and more. To create the best lighting design in your apartment, use a variety of height and direction of lighting (uplights like a floor torchiere and plant lights, downlights like an arc floor lamp and directional wall light, etc.).
We are seeing a growing lantern trend. Indoors or out, lanterns add spice to any space! Don’t be afraid to use them in unexpected places, such as the bathroom or bedroom. Here are some of our favorites (and our customers love them too)!
Antique Mirror Bell Jar Lantern
We literally saw the light when we spotted a beautiful antique mirrored glass hurricane candle holder not being used at full potential! Our creative minds told us that this piece would be much better on the ceiling as a hanging light for everyone to admire! We immediately got to work and came up with an ultra stylish design, better known as our Antique Mirror Bell Jar Lantern. It makes a statement in a foyer by itself or looks amazing when several are hung together over a kitchen island!
Bronze and Clear Glass Smokebell Lantern
Who doesn’t love a classic Smokebell Lantern? They date back to the colonial days and were designed with a glass lid to provide the maximum amount of candle light without getting smoke stains on the ceiling. Ours is a very traditional, plain glass version, much like the original…a timeless choice for a style that transcends trends!
Richmond Outdoor Hanging Lantern
We’ve got spring fever and can’t wait for the warm air to get here already so we can head outside and put our decorative skills to work in our outdoor living areas. An outdoor hanging lantern is a must for impromptu backyard get-togethers or fancy soirees on the veranda! Our Richmond Hanging lantern was designed by us and crafted by local skilled artisans, practically in OUR backyard. It’s made of real copper with a perfectly aged finish and has versatile classic appeal that takes any porch from ordinary to fabulous!
We’re really loving pagoda’s right now (okay, we’re obsessed…and not just right now!) They really pack a powerful punch and are an easy way to vamp up your style factor without redoing your whole house. Our Pagoda Lantern offers two far-east inspired colors that easily coordinate with any décor style. This piece would be a great focal point in a decorative powder room or bedroom! And we are giving it away in stylish green! To enter, just comment on this post with the words “LANTERN LOVE” by Monday, March 30th at 8pm EST. Then go ahead and let us know what else you love about lighting and home decor! Limit one entry per e-mail address (our winner will be selected using random.org). Good Luck!
Need help figuring out what size your chandelier or outdoor light should be?
How many lamps do you need in your living room?
How much wattage do you need in your new bathroom?
What size rug do you need for your family room?
Why are hand-knotted rugs more expensive?
Is a wool rug better than a synthetic rug?
Have other questions that need answers? Check out our customers questions & answers here. Don’t see what you are looking for? Email your question to AWHarrison@ShadesOfLight.com.
Accent Lighting
Bath Lights
Candlestick Lighting
Ceramics & Porcelain
All About Ceiling Fans
Ceiling Lights
Chandeliers
Crystal (Types of Crystal)
Dorm and Apartment Decor
Floor Lamps
Green Your Home
Holiday Lighting Ideas
Ceiling Medallions
Outdoor Lighting
Sconces
Lamp Shades
Lamp Shade Basics
Lamp Shade Selection “Rules”
Light Bulb Types
Lighting for New Construction - Checklist
Lighting Products - Knowledge Base
Spice Up Your Kitchen without emptying your bank account!
Swing Arm Wall Lamps
All About Table Lamps
Table Lamp Solutions
Glossary
Choosing A Rug
Construction
Types of Fibers
Maintaining Your Rug
Choosing the Correct Rug Size
Need a new look? Planning and organizing your thoughts with your vision can be a daunting task! Our design team works for months on our cover shots.
We start by scouring magazines & tearing out pages that inspire us; pour over fabric books; paint charts;
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take pictures of anything that catches our attention for our look;
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and madly search the internet for ideas:
Blogs (http://thepeakofchic.blogspot.com/)
HGTV online (http://www.hgtv.com/decorating/index.html)
Consult our retail store Designers (http://bridgetbearidesigns.blogspot.com and http://www.dialmeyersdesign.blogspot.com)
Once we have hundreds of images pulled we print them and pasting them on an inspiration board. We have a large foam board on a easel where we paste & pin ideas; we switch it out, add & delete over many weeks. Creating a central location where our team can bring all of their ideas together.

Our projects evolve & when they come together we vote & pick a catalog cover;


Have fun! Make your dreams come true with a wish board of your own.
Tweet, Tweet…make your nest complete! The bird craze is all about bringing the outdoors in with rich, graphic and traditional bird patterns! Birds of a feather flock to everything home!
Image from Decorating Magazine
We’ve got your feathers covered…






Love Birds Rug, High Gloss White Bird Lamp, Birdcage Ceiling Light, Porcelain Bird Wall Sconce, Birds on a Branch Outdoor Light, Vintage Cream Bird Sconce, Blue Bird Hooked Rug, Vintage Bird Chandelier, Favorite Italian Wall Sconce
The resurgence to the past may have something to do with the explosion of the comfort trend & all things home. There is definitely a nostalgia craze buzzing about and we want to give you some design tips so you can execute this trend properly. One thing to know anything goes & the hip thing to do is mix old & new for a true eclectic design mix.
Featured below are both Antique & Antique Reproductions…
A not so fussy crystal chandelier, found in Veranda, adds to this eclectic mix…
Photo courtesy of Things that Inspire
Our version at ShadesofLight.com…
Our Antique Reproduction Oushaks Rugs are virtually indistinguishable from authentic antiques. The washed quality leaves gorgeous color gives an antique finish while blending nicely into rooms that are already decorated.
No matter what; enjoy your decorating projects; break the rules! We think there are no rules; just use your own personal taste for your creative indulgence.
Thanks so much to beach bungalow 8 for featuring us - here’s the link!
AC: Alternating current: An electrical current that reverses its direction at regular intervals
Accent lighting: Lighting that focuses on a specific object or architectural feature
Ambient lighting:General lighting in a room
Amp: Measure of rate of electrical flow in a circuit
Backplate: Flat plate behind wall sconce to cover electrical box
Baffle:Waffle device used to reduce glare
Ballast: Device used to control the current and prevent overheating in a discharge lamp
Barn doors: Hinged shutters used to precisely shape the beam of a lamp
Bobeche: Decorative crystal, metal, wood, etc. “bowl” used on chandeliers and sconces, often pierced to hold crystals (originally used to catch wax dripping from candles)
Breaker box: Metal box with fuses or circuit breakers that breaks down electrical service into smaller circuits
Bus bar: Fuse box, breaker box
BX or flexible metal conduit: Bendable tubing that holds electrical lines
Candlecover: Plastic, metal, or cardboard sleeve that simulates the look of a wax candle (to conceal a socket)
Candela: Unit of light intensity (SI), roughly equivalent to 12.57 lumens
Candlepower: Luminous intensity of a light source measured in candela
Canopy: Decorative plate that goes flush to the ceiling on a chandelier or ceiling light that conceals electrical box
Chimney: Open-ended glass surround used on an oil lamp to hold lampshade
Circuit: Path of electrical flow (wiring)
Circuit breaker: Switch that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload
Check ring: Metal disk that holds candlecover or neck on a light fixture
Clip adapter: Metal bulb clip that attaches to a lampshade converting it to a shade that clips onto the bulb
Collar: Threaded ring that holds the canopy to the ceiling on a chandelier
Color rendition index: A measure of the effect of a particular kind of light bulb on a colored surface (the larger the number, the truer to the color in real sunlight; measured between 1 and 100)
Common: Dark-colored screw on an electrical switch
Conductor: Wire that carries electricity
Conduit: Rigid or flexible tubing that holds electrical wires inside
Contacts: Connection point for electrical wires
Continuity Tester: Test device for electrical circuit
Cord switch: On-off switch for a portable lamp that attaches along the cord
Current: Flow of electricity through a wire, measured in amps
DC (direct current): Electrical current that flows in only one direction, not a complete circuit
Diffuser: Translucent “shield” designed to reduce glare and filter light more evenly
Dimmer: Switch that allows you to vary the intensity of a light fixture
Discharge lamp: Light bulb which incorporates an electronic discharge through a gas or vapor
Duplex receptacle: Outlet with 2 plug-in connections
Efficacy: Lumens per watt measure of the efficiency of a light source
Electrical box: Box in the wall where electrical connections are made to fixtures and that supports fixtures
Electric meter: device that measures amount of electricity consumed
Electronic transformer:
Faceplate: Switch box or outlet cover plate
Filament: Thin tungsten wire that emits light when heated by an electrical current
Finial: Decorative item with threaded base used to secure a lampshade to a harp and “finish” the look of a table or floor lamp
Fish tape: Extending metal tape with a hook on the end used to pull wires through a wall
Fitter: Decorative rim that holds glass shades on place on a light fixture
Fixture: Any decorative electrical item that permanently affixes to a wall or ceiling
Flush mount: Light fixture that hangs flush on the ceiling
Foot switch: Device for turning a floor lamp on and off that sits on the floor and is joined to the cord
Framing projector: device that allows you to accurately control the size of the light beam
Fuse: Screw-in, plug-in, or snap-in device that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload
Ganging: 2 or more electrical lines ending in the same switch box or receptacle
Ground wire: Wire (that carries no current) that runs from the fixture to metal attached to nonmetal material to ground the current in case of a short (Ground wire is usually bare copper or green).
GFI: Ground-fault interrupter: A sensing device that shuts down the electricity in the case of a shock hazard
Harp: Metal “U” that supports lampshade over bulb and lamp base
Harp holder: Metal “U” that connects harp to lamp base
Hot wire (live wire): Wire that carries the current to a receptacle and fixture (usually black)
Hurricane: Decorative glass surround for candle-like sockets
Illuminance: Amount of light that falls on a surface (measured in lumens per square foot)
Indirect lighting: Lighting that is reflected off a wall, ceiling, shade, etc.
Insulation: Nonconductive coating that protects electrical wires
Junction box: Connection point for wires from fixture to fixture and switch box to fixture
Kelvin (color temperature): Measure of redness or blueness of a light source (the higher the number, the warmer the color)
Kilowatt: 1000 watts (measure of electrical consumption)
Knockouts: Tabs that can be removed from electrical box or fixture to make wiring connections
Lamp: Technical name for light bulb
Loop: Threaded U-joint that attaches chain to the canopy on a chandelier
Locknut: Threaded nut used to tighten parts inside a light fixture
Louvers: Parallel slats on a lighting fixture used to prevent glare and direct light
Low-voltage: Reduction of regular household current (120 volts) to a lower voltage (usually 12-volt) using a transformer
Lumen (measured in footcandles): Measure of amount of light emitted (one lumen is the amount of light from one candle one foot away)
Magnetic transformer:
Medium base: Socket size for a regular household bulb
NEC code: National Fire Protection Association codes for wiring
Neck: Brass or decorative rod used to add space between a lamp base and the socket
Neutral wire: Wire that carries current from receptacle or fixture back to the fuse box to complete the circuit (usually white)
Outlet: Point at which electrical wire attach to fixtures, receptacles, or switches
Pendant: Light fixture that hangs from the ceiling
Polarized plug: Plug on portable lighting item with different shaped prongs to ensure that the hot and neutral wires can’t be reversed
Raceway: Exterior channel that allows wires to be run on the surface of a wall or ceiling
Rated life of bulb: Number of hours at which 50% of the bulbs will fail under standard conditions
Receptacle: Outlet that supplies power for plug-in electrical items
Reflector: Mirrored or polished surface designed to project light in a specific direction
Riser: Threaded brass rod that screws into the top of a harp to raise the lampshade
Romex cable: Romex is a common brand name for Nonmetallic (i.e. plastic) sheathing for wiring which carries hot, neutral and ground wires, both one and two circuit. It is used in dry, protected areas like stud walls, not underground. A similar cable, commonly called UF, has a heavier plastic sheathing and is suitable for underground uses, like outdoor lighting.
SAD (seasonal affective disorder): Depression that occurs in individuals due to lack of sunlight during winter months
Sconce: Light fixture that hangs on the wall
Semi-flush mount: Light fixture that hangs down from the ceiling less than 2’
Service panel: Main fuse box where electrical service enters the home
Set screw: Knurled-edge screw used to hold a glass shade tight in the fitter
Short: Spark resulting from neutral and hot wires touching each other causing a blown fuse or circuit breaker flipping to off
Silver crown bulb: Bulb with silver coating on the end to reduce glare
Single pole: Light switch in the wall where you can only cut on & off the light from that one location
Socket: Electrical component that connects to 2 electrical wires and has threads for light bulb to screw into
Socket reducer: Screw-in socket that attaches to another socket to reduce the size of the bulb base
Spider: Three top horizontal rods of a lampshade frame
Splice: Connection made by joining 2 or more wires
SPT2 wire: Technical term for lamp wiring cord
Starter: Magnetic coil that strikes an arc between electrodes when a fluorescent bulb receives electricity
Stripping: Removing insulation from electrical wires to allow a connection between wires
Three-way bulb: Bulb with 2 different wattage filaments, allowing you to turn on each separately or both together
Three-way switch: A light control switch that allows you to turn the fixture on and off from 2 different locations
Transformer: Electrical device that changes the amount of voltage in a wiring line
Magnetic Transformer: Larger & heavier transformer using copper around a steel core to step down elctricity from 120 volts to 12 volts. Requires special magnetic dimmer.
Electronic Transformer: Compact & lightweight and more efficient than magnetic transformer. Requires electronic low-voltage dimmer.
Turn knob: Brass or plastic screw-on knob used to switch a portable lamp on and off
Underwriters knot: A special kind of knot in 2 electrical wires to secure the wires from pulling out from the socket
UL: United Laboratories testing organization that issues guidelines and provides testing to ensure wiring safety
Vase cap: Brass or wood cap to cover the opening in the top of a vase when converting it to a lamp
Volt: Measure of electrical pressure in a circuit
Voltage drop: Loss of electrical current on long wiring runs
Washer: Open round disc in the center of the top horizontal rods of a lampshade
Watt: Measure of electrical power being used on a circuit (volts x amps = watts)
Wire nut: plastic-enclosed coil used to join the ends of 2 or more electrical wires
Zip cord: Electrical cord with 2 wires joined with grooved insulation between them
Downlighting: Light filtering downward from above casting shadows on the floor in a moonlight effect
Grazing: Positioning of a light source in a vertical direction close to a surface to highlight surface texture
Silhouetting: Light from behind to create an outlined effect of an item
Spotlighting: Highly focused beam of light
Task Lighting: Lighting that focuses light on areas where tasks are done (reading, make-up, cooking, etc.)
Uplighting: Technique of lighting an item from below, creating shadows above
Wall washing: Light up entire wall usually from at least 3’ away
Delayed-start fluorescent tube: Type of fluorescent bulb that takes a few seconds to warm up
Fluorescent tube: A light source created by an ionization process and a coated glass tube
Halogen (quartz): Incandescent bulb filled with halogen gas to increase the intensity of the light and increase the life of the bulb
HID (high-intensity discharge): Mercury vapor, metal halide, or high-pressure sodium gases in pressurized glass container that produces light when electricity is applied
Incandescent bulb: Household bulb with a tungsten filament wire that lights when electricity flows through it
Neon: Bulb that contains an inert gas (neon) that glows when voltage is applied
Xenon: Similar to halogen but has Xenon gas and bare hands do not reduce life of the bulb
Placement: Place your electrical box for your exterior light so that the top of the fixture is 20% lower than the top of the molding. Allow for the side door molding also.
Size: Outdoor lamps should be approximately one fifth the height and width of the doorway, including trim. (For example a 100″ high by 60″ wide entrance would require an 20″Hx12″W fixture.) Post lights should be as large or larger than the lights at your front door.

Style: Outdoor lights should be compatible with the look and lines of a house. Door lamps should be approximately one fifth the height and width of the doorway, including trim. (For example a 100″ high by 60″ wide entrance would require an 20″Hx12″W fixture.) Open bottom fixtures are better for down lighting an area, and glass-topped lanterns are the better choice for accenting architectural elements above and around the door.
Post lights should be as large or larger than the lights at your front door.
Wall-mounted fixtures with arms or brackets can fit into tighter spots in areas between moldings. Fixtures with several low wattage candle bulbs are superior to those with a single bulb since they provide more light with less glare.
Where: Most homes have a center ceiling light in bedrooms, bathrooms, and hallways. Our fixtures are selected to work in almost any room, even those with low ceilings.
Style: Typical ceiling lighting choices include:
Wattage: Most ceiling lights have at least 2 light bulbs to give you more evenly spread light without hot spots. Dimmers are always recommended to alter the light levels to suit your needs.
Finding bathroom lighting fixtures that are both functional and esthetically pleasing can present a real problem. Functionally, few fixtures can beat the standard over, on, or beside the mirror bath strip.
Where: Use strips above the mirror or beside the mirror for shadow free light or use wall sconces on either side of the mirror. If electrical boxes are pre-cut in the mirror, strips can be mounted on top of the mirror.
Size: Select the strip light closest in scale to your mirror. A 30″ vanity can take a 24″ wide strip.
Style: For bathrooms with ornate sink and mirror designs, wall sconces are a natural choice. For general bath lighting, consider a small chandelier or lantern. Lack of space or existing wiring often dictates the use of recessed lights, which can cast significant shadows. Sometimes small pendants will work as alternatives to recessed lights. For double sinks, try 3 sconces flanking 2 mirrors.
Wattage: Since bathrooms require two watts of light per square foot, you will need at least two sconces for the space.
Placement: Above the mirror fixtures should be placed approximately 80″ above the floor and at least 6″ from the ceiling. Wall sconces beside the mirror should be placed at eye level.
Shades: If your bath light has candle bulbs, use shades to direct light down and reduce glare.
Drama is created in your interiors using a play of light and shadow. Here are some techniques to use.