Posts Tagged ‘crystal’

Types of Crystal

There is no great mystery in discerning the quality levels of crystal. In fact, the level of quality is as the phrase implies “crystal clear”. Glass trim reflects light while crystal trim refracts it. Within a solid white environment, glass will have no color. Crystal, on the other hand, will still display fire and brilliance regardless of the presence of color. All that is needed is light.

Strass crystal
Strass crystal is considered the highest quality of crystal trim throughout the world. Swarovski Strass, manufactured in Austria, is considered the premium brand of Strass due to a patented anti-dust coating (an invisible optical coating making it easier to clean and maintain) and name recognition. The term “Strass” means “perfect surface of glass” and contains lead quantities of 30% or more. The machine polishing leaves no trace on the surface of the crystal and the hand polishing creates perfect optic clarity, razor-sharp faceting and unique purity and brilliance. And to protect buyers against imitations, the Strass logo is laser etched into miniature inside each crystal piece.

Gem cut, Egyptian, or Spectra Lead Crystal
Gemcut, Egyptian, or Spectra lead crystal (made with 24%-30% lead oxide) is some of the finest refractive crystal. There is no noticeable difference between 30% and 24% machine-polished lead crystal. Lead improves clarity and softens glass for cutting. Though not as expensive as Strass or Swarovski crystal, this crystal is characterized by a prismatic brilliance, visual purity, sharp faceting and precise polishing all its own. Spectra Crystal is manufactured like Strass crystal but without the optical coating.

Turkish, Heirloom, Bohemian, Czech Crystal
This crystal uses a mixture of oxides other than lead, such as soda ash, to achieve high optical clarity and refraction of light that closely rivals full-lead crystal. The EU certifies that glass must contain at least 10% oxides to carry the label “Crystal”.
In fact, one would need a piece of both lead-free crystal and full-lead Strass crystal to notice the difference between them. What you would see is approximately 10% more color/fire in the Strass crystal and no noticeable trace of polishing within the facets. The difference in price is what makes lead-free Bohemian Crystal a value in comparison to full-lead crystal.

Murano Glass
Made in Italy on the island of Murano, authentic Venetian crystal combines quartz, soda, sand, potassium, and lead oxide at very high temperatures. The glass is blown and stretched by hand allowing artisans to create delicate floral and other unique shapes.

Wood-Polished Crystal
In a labor-intensive process, wood-polished crystal is first cut by hand in two stages on iron and then sandstone grinding wheels. Then each crystal is polished on a wood wheel with marble dust. You may notice faint traces of the wood wheel in finished pieces, a mark of authenticity.

Italian Crystal (Legacy, Venetian)
This lead-free crystal is used in antique reproductions to accurately reproduce the antique since lead crystal wasn’t invented until the 17th century. Italian crystal comes from the historic glass-making region around Venice and has a look and feel all its own. Italian crystal is molded and fire-polished rather than hand or machine cut, resulting in a beautifully subtle luminosity. Fire-polished crystal is characterized by concave facets (instead of flat facets), the appearance of a slight texture within the crystal, lessening optical clarity, and a noticeable characteristic of reflecting color in the environment instead of refracting light into a prism of color within the crystal. It is modestly priced, compared with hand-cut crystal.

Lead-Free crystal
Machine-polished lead-free crystal is the closest quality level to Strass crystal. High-quality machine polishing leaves no trace of the polishing on the facets of the crystal. While this is less expensive than Strass Crystal, there are many who would argue that its handcrafted nature elevates it above machine made crystal. When looking closely into the facets of hand-polished crystal, one can see slight grooves in the crystal left by the polishing wheel, as each facet of the crystal was pressed by hand and individually polished. These slight grooves, apparent only from very close scrutiny, lay testament that it is a handcrafted piece of crystal made of exceptional skill and craftsmanship. Many people within the industry have mistaken this crystal for Strass.

Pressed Glass & Chinese “Crystal”

Generally made from sand, soda, and lime heated in furnace and then pressed (molded), or “drawn” (re-shaped), this type of glass is the least expensive. Chinese crystal is cut and polished like more expensive grades, but lacks the high optic quality and precision facets. Seams are usually visible in pressed glass lamps and prisms.

Rock Crystal (Quartz Crystal)
Not real crystal glass at all, rock crystal is crystal rock that is mined, not manufactured. It cannot be mass-produced. Each rock crystal is completely unique, created by geological events and pressures taking place over millions of years. Authentic rock crystal bears a unique mark from this process, and can be identified both by visual appearance and by touch - it remains mysteriously cool to the touch no matter what the surrounding temperature. Raw quartz is mined in only a few remote locations. Rocks are hand selected, then ground, cut and polished entirely by hand - an expensive process. Polishing one piece can take a week or more because of the natural complexity of the rock material, and the rejection rate for imperfect pieces can be 12 to 1 or more. Used extensively until crystal glass manufacturing methods were invented, rock crystal is generally used today in specialty lighting fixtures and custom designs.

Aurora Borealis Crystal
Clear crystal needs direct light to really create lovely rainbows on nearby surfaces, while the Aurora Borealis crystal looks beautiful even without direct light. The Aurora Borealis treatment is applied to one side of the prism and looks like a multi-colored rainbow that is reflected through the prism.

Lighting Products - Knowledge Base

METALS: All metals conduct electricity (thus the need for a “ground” wire).

  • Brass: Mixture of copper (55%-95%) and zinc and sometimes lead (for strength). May also have some lead, tin, nickel, etc. Yellow brass has 70% copper.
  • Bronze: Alloy of copper and tin (25%) and sometimes lead, zinc, phosphorous.
  • Copper: Usually plated because it’s too soft to hold shape (unless its fairly thick). Known for its ability to conduct electricity and heat.

Brass, bronze, copper, aluminum, and chrome do not rust and resist corrosion, so they are often used for outdoor lights. A green or brown patina forms over time and helps prevent corrosion. A magnet will not adhere to brass, bronze, or pot metal.

  • Chrome: Hard brittle gray metal used to plate other metals to give them a shiny finish.
  • Pewter: Alloy of tin (95%) and copper or antimony (sometimes aluminum is substituted which is very light in weight).

Pewter, copper, and pure silver dent easily.

  • Tin: Soft and easy to bend. Will rust. Often used in solder.
  • Tôle: Hand-painting on tin.
  • Silver: Softer than gold and usually plated onto a harder metal.  Sterling silver is not good for lamps because it’s too soft.
  • Wrought iron: Pure iron mixed with a glass-like material so it can be “wrought” into shapes.  (Cast iron is too brittle and cannot be shaped). Iron must be covered with paint or lacquer to prevent rust and corrosion.
  • Cast Aluminum: Light in weight, resists corrosion, silvery-white metal.
  • Stainless Steel: Resists corrosion and rust. 10% chromium.
  • “Pot” Metal: a gray alloy that can be cast but snaps when bent. Cheapest of all metals.

CRYSTAL & GLASS

  • Rock Crystal: Natural quartz mined in quarries. Very expensive!
  • Crystal: 24%-30% lead oxide (Lead improves clarity and softens glass for cutting).
  • Strass (Swarovski) Crystal: most expensive and most “fire”
  • Soda Ash Crystal (Turkish, Heirloom, etc.): Next best thing
  • Czechoslovakian: Some lead but not much.
  • Italian Crystal: No lead, just cut glass. Used in antique reproductions.
  • Murano Glass: Combination of quartz, soda, sand, potassium, and lead oxide at very high temperature. Glass is blown and stretched by hand. Many floral and unique shapes in glass.
  • Glass: Sand, soda, and lime heated in furnace and then blown, pressed (molded), or “drawn” (re-shaped).
  • Pressed Glass: Seams usually visible.

POTTERY & PORCELAIN

  • Porcelain: Hard paste ware fired at highest temperature. Purest and most delicate pottery.
  • Bone China: Hardest and most translucent of all porcelains.
  • China: Soft paste porcelain fired at lower temperature.
  • Stoneware: Clay fired to state of vitrification, non-porous, doesn’t require glaze for durability. Hard, heavy pottery that has a glossy surface when fired, so is often not glazed.
  • Earthenware: Clay that is not vitrified (glassy). Usually finished with colorful glazes and baked at low temperature. Very soft and easy to chip.
  • Terra cotta: (Burnt earth) Clay baked without a glaze, very porous and soft.
  • Bisque (Biscuit): Pottery fired once but not glazed.
  • Tin-glaze Pottery: Lead glaze made by adding tin oxide to glaze to conceal clay colors (Italian Majolica, French Faience, English Delftware).

OTHER MATERIALS:

  • Marble: Pressure and heat cause limestone to form into marble.  Pure marble is white. Pink and red marble has iron in it. Black marble comes from carbon or graphite.  Green marble is from chlorite. Tiny calcite crystals in marble make it sparkle. Marble can be cut or carved.
  • Alabaster: Alabaster is hydrated calcium sulfate which deteriorates when exposed to weather. High temperature will cause it to turn chalky white and then brown. Alabaster is carved, then sanded and smoothed, and then sprayed with polyurethane to close the pores and prevent deterioration. The translucent type is used for lighting fixtures lit from within (bowls and shades and wall uplights). The semi-transparent type (which resembles rock crystal) is used for lamp bases and lamp parts.
  • Wood:
    1. Hardwood: Walnut, Oak. Rosewood, Cherry, Maple
    2. Softwood: Pine, poplar, redwood
  • Wicker and Rattan:
    1. Wicker is usually made from willow branches and twigs.
    2. Rattan is made from reedy stems of palms in East India or Africa.
  • Hydrocal and plaster:
    1. Plaster: A lime, water, and sand composition that hardens when dry.
    2. Hydrocal: plaster with an extra bonding agent
    3. Cement: Sand, gravel, silica, gypsum, etc. added to plaster of paris mixture and fired in a kiln.
  • Resin (Plastic): Synthetic compound that can be dyed and molded. Stronger than hydrocal and non-porous.

CARE OF MATERIALS:

  • Brass & Bronze:
    1. Lacquered: Wash with sudsy water, rinse, dry, and buff with soft dry cloth. An old cotton sock makes an excellent polishing cloth,
    2. Not lacquered, shiny finish:  Wash and then apply brass polish.  Let polish dry. Then buff with a soft cloth. Apply thin coat of paste wax or lemon oil after polishing.
    3. For aged finishes:  Mix rottenstone and linseed oil to form a heavy cream and apply with a soft cloth and rub. Wipe off excess and polish with a soft cloth.
    4. For heavy corrosion: Rub with lemon dipped in hot vinegar, and salt mixture, wash, and rinse.
  • Chrome: Wipe with cloth soaked in sudsy water, rinse, and buff with a clean soft cloth.  For corrosion, rub with extra-fine steel wool.
  • Copper: Same as brass except use copper polish on unlacquered objects.
  • Iron: Wipe with a damp cloth and dry.  For corrosion, rub with kerosene and fine steel wool.
  • Silver: Follow instructions for brass except use a polish that is for silver only.
  • Silver-leaf and gold leaf: Use a soft shaving brush instead of a cloth to clean to avoid tearing the finish. To brighten, moisten a cotton ball with dry cleaning fluid or onion juice and gently pat (DO NOT RUB). Dry thoroughly.
  • Pewter: Polish with jeweler’s rouge and buff to produce a mirror-like surface. Pewter oxidizes slowly and evenly (as opposed to tarnishes) when exposed to air and gradually develops a soft warm patina.
  • Nickel: Polish with household ammonia.
  • Alabaster: Use a damp (not wet) cloth and gently wipe clean. NEVER use detergents or abrasives.
  • Marble: Remove stains with a paste made from hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store), powdered whiting (from the paint store), and a few drops of ammonia. Rinse with water, buff dry, and apply furniture polish.

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The Best of the Best!

We’re highlighting a selection of our customer’s favorite items and where one might use them.

Designs By Gollum’s Michael Lee’s elegantly appointed home is a treasure of detail & mastery of design.

Her use of a crystal chandelier in the boudoir can be replicated using our European Crystal Elegance Chandelier.

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Recreate the perfect ambient lighting effects seen in her dining room for your next soiree using our beaded Old Hollywood Regency Chandelier, Old Hollywood Sconce & Starburst Candlestick Lamp.

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The high design impact of mirrored furniture reflected here makes quite the statement. We have an array of styles and finishes.

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Classic furnishings with the dramatic impact of the black zebra in Designs By Gollums’ sophisticated living room. Our stenciled zebra skins are available in black or chocolate.

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Visit Designs by Gollum for our Princess Basket Wall Sconce Giveaway!

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Michael is busy penning her next novel; a trilogy that revolves around a Charleston “cake lady” named Teeny. The first book in the series is titled Gone with a Handsomer Man. Visit Michael Lee West for all the details of her enchanting and charming novels.

Hope our inspiration helps you to make your home your haven.