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Tips & Techniques

tips-techNeed help figuring out what size your chandelier or outdoor light should be?

How many lamps do you need in your living room?

How much wattage do you need in your new bathroom?

What size rug do you need for your family room?

Why are hand-knotted rugs more expensive?

Is a wool rug better than a synthetic rug?

Have other questions that need answers? Check out our customers questions & answers here. Don’t see what you are looking for? Email your question to AWHarrison@ShadesOfLight.com.

Lighting Tips & Techniques

Accent Lighting
Bath Lights
Candlestick Lighting
Ceramics & Porcelain
All About Ceiling Fans
Ceiling Fan Light Fixtures
Ceiling Lights
Chandeliers
Crystal (Types of Crystal)
Dorm and Apartment Decor
Floor Lamp Guidelines
Green Your Home
Holiday Lighting Ideas
Ceiling Medallions
Outdoor Light Guidelines
Wall Sconce Guidelines
Lamp Shades
How to Determine the Correct Lampshade Size
Lamp Shade Basics
Lamp Shade Selection “Rules”
Light Bulb Equivalents
Light Bulb Types
Lighting for New Construction – Checklist
Lighting Products – Knowledge Base
Spice Up Your Kitchen without emptying your bank account!
Swing Arm Wall Lamps
All About Table Lamps
Table Lamp Solutions
Glossary

Rugs Tips & Techniques

Choosing A Rug
Construction
Types of Fibers
Maintaining Your Rug
Choosing the Correct Rug Size

Choosing the Correct Rug Size

Dining Room

Measure the dining room table and then add 54″ to the length and the width so chairs can be moved in and out without slipping off the rug.

 

Living Room & Family Room

Measure the perimeter of your entire furniture grouping and deduct 24″ from the length and the width.  This will allow the front legs of sofas and chairs to be on the rug and anchor the seating area.   If you want to unify and “box in” your arrangement for a more contemporary look, measure so ALL parts of the furniture will be on the rug. In larger rooms where there might be more than one furniture grouping, you may need 2 rugs.

 

Hallways

Measure the size of your hallway and subtract 12″ from the length and width.  This will allow for a 6″ border of flooring to show all around.

 

Bedrooms

Measure the bed, then add 28”-24″ (12” for twin beds) to each side that is not against the wall.  This way you have a rug to stand on while you put on your slippers. Or come off all walls 18” for a “room size” rug.

 

Irregular Shaped Rooms

In irregular-shaped rooms, consider a circular rug. In a room that is long and narrow or otherwise awkwardly shaped, a round rug can be a graceful way of defining a conversation area while still allowing high-traffic parts of the room to remain rug-free.

 

When unsure, map it out. If you just can’t decide what size rug will look good in your room use painter’s tape to map out the approximate size you like on the floor. Measure the dimensions and shop for a rug of that size.

 

Standard rug sizes are:

2’x3’

4’x6’

5’x7’

6’x9’

8’x10’

9’x12’

10’x14’

2’6”x8’ runner

Maintaining Your Rug

RUG CUSHION OR PAD

Not just for keeping your rug in place! The cushion is an important aspect of prolonging the life of your rug. The pad helps cushion the rug from the existing floor underneath to absorb the weight of traffic and to help keep the rug from breaking down. Choose the correct pad to keep the rug from slipping. Determine whether the rug will be on top of carpet or on a hard surface floor. We offer a selection of pads of each type.

PROPER CLEANING

To keep your rug in great shape, vacuum or shake it regularly. You need to get any loose dirt from the surface of the rug. Dirt and soil can work down into the base of the rug and break down the fibers. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on cleaning. When using over the counter products, all traces must be removed from the carpet after cleaning. Otherwise, they will act like a magnet and soil will attach to any trace left in the rug. We recommend professional cleaning for all rugs. We do not recommend protective coatings for natural fibers. They could effect the color and destroy the fiber’s natural ability to breathe. However, protective coatings can be applied to synthetics. Our tufted wool area rugs naturally lose a bit of fuzz. This is natural, simply fetch a vacuum and groom away.

Types of Fibers

Natural

  • Wool — Soft thread sheared from a sheep’s coat.
  • Cotton — Soft fiber from the plant of the same name.
  • Silk — The soft, lustrous fiber obtained as a filament from the cocoon of the silkworm.
  • Sisal, Hemp, Coir or Cocoa — Natural fibers from plants of the same name; usually with a coarse and textured shaft.

Synthetics — man-made

  • Nylon — Resilient fiber man-made from petroleum based products; strong in construction.
  • Olefin or Polypropylene — Strong and colorfast. Great for sunny areas.
  • Polyester — Soft fiber; exceptional for cut pile.
  • Acrylic — Fiber that gives the appearance of wool; water resistant; usually found in bath carpets and rugs.
  • Blends — combination of any fibers synthetic or natural.
Rug Construction

WOVEN — Threads are loomed together by machine or hand. Examples are Hand Knotted, Flat Weaves or Rags.
Examples: Oriental, Aubusson, Kilim, Dhurrie, and Soumacks.

TUFTED — Threads are punched through a backing material by hand or machine. Surface can be looped or pile.
Examples: Hooked and Needlepoint.

BROADLOOM — Carpet construction that is made into rolls with raw unfinished edges. Can be cut and bound into rugs.
Examples: Plush, Saxonies, Textured and Berber.

Choosing the Right Rug

Choosing the right rug for an area requires planning. Home, work, play or retreat area should make a statement. If you are working with an empty area build from the foundation up. Choose the flooring first, then plan the paint, furnishing, fabrics & accessories around the floor.

  • Imagine the total look of the room or space you are creating
  • What will the area be used for
  • Area with high traffic should have a pattern in mid to darker tones to down play traffic patterns
  • A sitting area could have a lighter more fragile pattern
  • Lighter rugs will increase the perceived size of the room
  • Darker rugs will create a warmer, intimate decorum
  • Color, style & texture of the rug will set the “personality” of the room
  • Consider the existing floor & size of the area when determining the size of rug. Do you want to play down the existing floor, then get a larger rug with an overall pattern. If you want to show off the existing floor get a smaller rug in solid or tone on tone pattern

Rugs are a functional part of any room. They have many task. Protecting or hiding flaws to the existing floor, warming up the floor, creating a look and building a decorative foundation. The choices are virtually endless when it comes to selection. Our site is set up by categories of decor. If you do not see what you want, call us at 1-800-262-6612 with your request, and we will search our resources to find the match for your needs. Our team of buyers is constantly adding new patterns to stay on top of current trends and cutting edge products. We welcome the opportunity to assist you in your personal needs for that perfect rug for your decorative project.

Lighting and Electrical Glossary

AC: Alternating current: An electrical current that reverses its direction at regular intervals

Accent lighting: Lighting that focuses on a specific object or architectural feature

Ambient lighting:General lighting in a room

Amp: Measure of rate of electrical flow in a circuit

Backplate: Flat plate behind wall sconce to cover electrical box

Baffle:Waffle device used to reduce glare

Ballast: Device used to control the current and prevent overheating in a discharge lamp

Barn doors: Hinged shutters used to precisely shape the beam of a lamp

Bobeche: Decorative crystal, metal, wood, etc. “bowl” used on chandeliers and sconces, often pierced to hold crystals (originally used to catch wax dripping from candles)

Breaker box: Metal box with fuses or circuit breakers that breaks down electrical service into smaller circuits

Bus bar: Fuse box, breaker box

BX or flexible metal conduit: Bendable tubing that holds electrical lines

Candlecover: Plastic, metal, or cardboard sleeve that simulates the look of a wax candle (to conceal a socket)

Candela: Unit of light intensity (SI), roughly equivalent to 12.57 lumens

Candlepower: Luminous intensity of a light source measured in candela

Canopy: Decorative plate that goes flush to the ceiling on a chandelier or ceiling light that conceals electrical box

Chimney: Open-ended glass surround used on an oil lamp to hold lampshade

Circuit: Path of electrical flow (wiring)

Circuit breaker: Switch that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload

Check ring: Metal disk that holds candlecover or neck on a light fixture

Clip adapter: Metal bulb clip that attaches to a lampshade converting it to a shade that clips onto the bulb

Collar: Threaded ring that holds the canopy to the ceiling on a chandelier

Color rendition index: A measure of the effect of a particular kind of light bulb on a colored surface (the larger the number, the truer to the color in real sunlight; measured between 1 and 100)

Common: Dark-colored screw on an electrical switch

Conductor: Wire that carries electricity

Conduit: Rigid or flexible tubing that holds electrical wires inside

Contacts: Connection point for electrical wires

Continuity Tester: Test device for electrical circuit

Cord switch: On-off switch for a portable lamp that attaches along the cord

Current: Flow of electricity through a wire, measured in amps

DC (direct current): Electrical current that flows in only one direction, not a complete circuit

Diffuser: Translucent “shield” designed to reduce glare and filter light more evenly

Dimmer: Switch that allows you to vary the intensity of a light fixture

Discharge lamp: Light bulb which incorporates an electronic discharge through a gas or vapor

Duplex receptacle: Outlet with 2 plug-in connections

Efficacy: Lumens per watt measure of the efficiency of a light source

Electrical box: Box in the wall where electrical connections are made to fixtures and that supports fixtures

Electric meter: device that measures amount of electricity consumed

Electronic transformer:

Faceplate: Switch box or outlet cover plate

Filament: Thin tungsten wire that emits light when heated by an electrical current

Finial: Decorative item with threaded base used to secure a lampshade to a harp and “finish” the look of a table or floor lamp

Fish tape: Extending metal tape with a hook on the end used to pull wires through a wall

Fitter: Decorative rim that holds glass shades on place on a light fixture

Fixture: Any decorative electrical item that permanently affixes to a wall or ceiling

Flush mount: Light fixture that hangs flush on the ceiling

Foot switch: Device for turning a floor lamp on and off that sits on the floor and is joined to the cord

Framing projector: device that allows you to accurately control the size of the light beam

Fuse: Screw-in, plug-in, or snap-in device that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload

Ganging: 2 or more electrical lines ending in the same switch box or receptacle

Ground wire: Wire (that carries no current) that runs from the fixture to metal attached to nonmetal material to ground the current in case of a short (Ground wire is usually bare copper or green).

GFI: Ground-fault interrupter: A sensing device that shuts down the electricity in the case of a shock hazard

Harp: Metal “U” that supports lampshade over bulb and lamp base

Harp holder: Metal “U” that connects harp to lamp base

Hot wire (live wire): Wire that carries the current to a receptacle and fixture (usually black)

Hurricane: Decorative glass surround for candle-like sockets

Illuminance: Amount of light that falls on a surface (measured in lumens per square foot)

Indirect lighting: Lighting that is reflected off a wall, ceiling, shade, etc.

Insulation: Nonconductive coating that protects electrical wires

Junction box: Connection point for wires from fixture to fixture and switch box to fixture

Kelvin (color temperature): Measure of redness or blueness of a light source (the higher the number, the warmer the color)

Kilowatt: 1000 watts (measure of electrical consumption)

Knockouts: Tabs that can be removed from electrical box or fixture to make wiring connections

Lamp: Technical name for light bulb

Loop: Threaded U-joint that attaches chain to the canopy on a chandelier

Locknut: Threaded nut used to tighten parts inside a light fixture

Louvers: Parallel slats on a lighting fixture used to prevent glare and direct light

Low-voltage: Reduction of regular household current (120 volts) to a lower voltage (usually 12-volt) using a transformer

Lumen (measured in footcandles): Measure of amount of light emitted (one lumen is the amount of light from one candle one foot away)

Magnetic transformer:

Medium base: Socket size for a regular household bulb

NEC code: National Fire Protection Association codes for wiring

Neck: Brass or decorative rod used to add space between a lamp base and the socket

Neutral wire: Wire that carries current from receptacle or fixture back to the fuse box to complete the circuit (usually white)

Outlet: Point at which electrical wire attach to fixtures, receptacles, or switches

Pendant: Light fixture that hangs from the ceiling

Polarized plug: Plug on portable lighting item with different shaped prongs to ensure that the hot and neutral wires can’t be reversed

Raceway: Exterior channel that allows wires to be run on the surface of a wall or ceiling

Rated life of bulb: Number of hours at which 50% of the bulbs will fail under standard conditions

Receptacle: Outlet that supplies power for plug-in electrical items

Reflector: Mirrored or polished surface designed to project light in a specific direction

Riser: Threaded brass rod that screws into the top of a harp to raise the lampshade

Romex cable: Romex is a common brand name for Nonmetallic (i.e. plastic) sheathing for wiring which carries hot, neutral and ground wires, both one and two circuit. It is used in dry, protected areas like stud walls, not underground. A similar cable, commonly called UF, has a heavier plastic sheathing and is suitable for underground uses, like outdoor lighting.

SAD (seasonal affective disorder): Depression that occurs in individuals due to lack of sunlight during winter months

Sconce: Light fixture that hangs on the wall

Semi-flush mount: Light fixture that hangs down from the ceiling less than 2’

Service panel: Main fuse box where electrical service enters the home

Set screw: Knurled-edge screw used to hold a glass shade tight in the fitter

Short: Spark resulting from neutral and hot wires touching each other causing a blown fuse or circuit breaker flipping to off

Silver crown bulb: Bulb with silver coating on the end to reduce glare

Single pole: Light switch in the wall where you can only cut on & off the light from that one location

Socket: Electrical component that connects to 2 electrical wires and has threads for light bulb to screw into

Socket reducer: Screw-in socket that attaches to another socket to reduce the size of the bulb base

Spider: Three top horizontal rods of a lampshade frame

Splice: Connection made by joining 2 or more wires

SPT2 wire: Technical term for lamp wiring cord

Starter: Magnetic coil that strikes an arc between electrodes when a fluorescent bulb receives electricity

Stripping: Removing insulation from electrical wires to allow a connection between wires

Three-way bulb: Bulb with 2 different wattage filaments, allowing you to turn on each separately or both together

Three-way switch: A light control switch that allows you to turn the fixture on and off from 2 different locations

Transformer: Electrical device that changes the amount of voltage in a wiring line

Magnetic Transformer: Larger & heavier transformer using copper around a steel core to step down elctricity from 120 volts to 12 volts. Requires special magnetic dimmer.

Electronic Transformer: Compact & lightweight and more efficient than magnetic transformer. Requires electronic low-voltage dimmer.

Turn knob: Brass or plastic screw-on knob used to switch a portable lamp on and off

Underwriters knot: A special kind of knot in 2 electrical wires to secure the wires from pulling out from the socket

UL: United Laboratories testing organization that issues guidelines and provides testing to ensure wiring safety

Vase cap: Brass or wood cap to cover the opening in the top of a vase when converting it to a lamp

Volt: Measure of electrical pressure in a circuit

Voltage drop: Loss of electrical current on long wiring runs

Washer: Open round disc in the center of the top horizontal rods of a lampshade

Watt: Measure of electrical power being used on a circuit (volts x amps = watts)

Wire nut: plastic-enclosed coil used to join the ends of 2 or more electrical wires

Zip cord: Electrical cord with 2 wires joined with grooved insulation between them

Lighting Techniques:

Downlighting: Light filtering downward from above casting shadows on the floor in a moonlight effect

Grazing: Positioning of a light source in a vertical direction close to a surface to highlight surface texture

Silhouetting: Light from behind to create an outlined effect of an item

Spotlighting: Highly focused beam of light

Task Lighting: Lighting that focuses light on areas where tasks are done (reading, make-up, cooking, etc.)

Uplighting: Technique of lighting an item from below, creating shadows above

Wall washing: Light up entire wall usually from at least 3’ away

Types of bulbs:

Delayed-start fluorescent tube: Type of fluorescent bulb that takes a few seconds to warm up

Fluorescent tube: A light source created by an ionization process and a coated glass tube

Halogen (quartz): Incandescent bulb filled with halogen gas to increase the intensity of the light and increase the life of the bulb

HID (high-intensity discharge): Mercury vapor, metal halide, or high-pressure sodium gases in pressurized glass container that produces light when electricity is applied

Incandescent bulb: Household bulb with a tungsten filament wire that lights when electricity flows through it

Neon: Bulb that contains an inert gas (neon) that glows when voltage is applied

Xenon: Similar to halogen but has Xenon gas and bare hands do not reduce life of the bulb

Table Lamp Solutions

Where: Unless you have provided lighting from another source, a table lamp should be placed beside each seating piece.

Size: Although table lamps on either side of a sofa need not be identical, they should have the same “visual” weight and height. The correct height for a table lamp is determined by the chair/sofa and the height of the table beside it. To avoid glare, the lamp should be tall enough for the bottom of its lampshade to reach the eye level of the person seated next to it.

Style: Designers recommend using table lamps as the principle lighting source in a room. By bringing the light down to task level, table lamps provide a warmth and intimacy unmatched by overhead fixtures.

Wattage: The average table lamp will light 40-50 square feet. You may need up to five lamps in a standard 12×20 foot living room.

Shades: The proper shade will add the finishing touch to your lamp. Bulb wattage is determined by the size of the lampshade.

Anatomy of a table lamp:

table1

Swing Arm Wall Lamp Solutions

Where: Swing arm wall lamps can be the perfect lighting solution when tabletop space is not available: beside beds, behind sofas, between bookshelves, over dressing tables, and even in bathrooms.

Style: Because these lamps have adjustable arms and can be hung at any height, they are excellent task lights for functions such as reading and needlework.

Wattage: Look for swing arm wall lamps that provide a variety of light levels (3-way sockets and dimmers).

Placement: Hang wall lamps so that the bottom of the shade is at eye level of the user.

Shades: Unique lampshades can give any wall lamp just the right personality for your room.

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.

Lampshade Selection “Rules”

  1. The more basic the shape of the body of the lamp, the more varied styles of shades it can take.
  2. Repeat the shape(s) in the lamp body in the shade shape; i.e., a round lamp on a square base can take a shade with a rounded top and square bottom.
  3. Always take the lamp body (not necessarily the shade) to the store to buy a new shade.
  4. Match lampshade colors to the trim color in your room and the tones in the lamp body. Don’t be afraid of black or color as an accent.
  5. Consider your wattage needs! The lampshade (not the lamp body) determines maximum wattage allowed.
  6. Consider the style of the lamp when selecting a shade. A busy lamp generally calls for a plainer shade.
  7. For DRAMA, break the rules! Try “extreme” shades! Put a deep cone shade on a short round ball base, a white shade on a beige vase, a cube shade on a stacked ball lamp, a red or black shade on a boring base shape, etc.

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.

Lampshade Basics

A lampshade can have many different fittings to attach it to the lamp.

washer (goes on a harp)
regular clip (clips on to a regular light bulb)
candle clip (clips on a candle bulb)
uno (threaded hole in top that screws onto the socket)
chimney (open hole in top that slides over a glass hurricane)
reflector bowl (shade rests on top of a glass bowl)

Maximum wattage for Lampshades

Distance from widest part of bulb to inside of shade Wattage
1 5/8″ 25 watts
2″ 40 watts
2.5″ 60 watts
2 7/8″ 75 watts
3.5″ 100 watts
4.75″ 150 watts
6″ 200 watts
7.25″ 250 watts

How to measure a shade: diameter across top/ diameter across bottom/ slant along side

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.

How to Select the Proper Lampshade

A carefully selected lampshade will make your lamp really special as well as maximize the function of the lamp. You should choose a shade with a shape that follows the general contours of the lamp. Square lamps look best with square shades and round lamps look best with round shades. A shapely lamp can take a shapely shade. An interesting alternative is to repeat the shape of the BOTTOM BASE of the lamp in the shade’s shape. For example, try a square shade on a round ginger jar with a square wood base.

The height of the shade should never exceed the height of the body of the lamp. Generally, the shade is 1/3 the total height of the table lamp. The more slender the body of the lamp, the shallower the shade can be. Often you will need to change the size of the harp on your lamp when you change the lampshade. The more flared the shade, the shorter the harp you need. The bottom of the lampshade should come to the top of the body of the lamp so that no mechanical parts except the neck show. The bottom of the shade should also fall at the eye level of the user.

While shades add the finishing touch to a lamp, they should also be selected to produce the amount of light required. Translucent white and ivory shades give off a gentle overall light while opaque shades focus light down for reading or illuminating objects on a table. Although it’s best to keep all the “white” shades in a room the same color (keep to the tones of the wall or trim color), an occasional colored or black shade can add pizzazz and diversity.

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.

Wall Sconce Guidelines

Where: Sconces are perfect as a framing device for French doors, mantels, mirrors and paintings, so they are equally at home in the living room, dining room, and bedroom. They add decorative interest while lighting up artwork and other eye-level details.

Size: Sconces should be scaled to complement the size of the room as well as the mirror or painting or doorway between them.

Style: Sconces can add elegance, whimsy, sparkle, interest, and beauty to your walls. Wall sconces are an often-overlooked solution for brightening dark spaces. Compact but decorative, they add just enough extra light to complement other lighting sources. Wall sconces can also be used to light a hallway or any dark area with no space for a table or floor lamp. They are often the forgotten alternative for bath lighting, placed on either side or above the mirror.

Placement: Wall sconces should always be hung so the light shines at eye level. When an electrical box is not available or practical to install, sconces can be converted to plug-ins.

Shades: Small shades or shields will help to avoid glare and soften the lighting effect, as will a dimmer.

Outdoor Light Guidelines

Placement: Place your electrical box for your exterior light so that the top of the fixture is 20% lower than the top of the molding. Allow for the side door molding also.

 

Size: Outdoor lamps should be approximately one fifth the height and width of the doorway, including trim. (For example a 100″ high by 60″ wide entrance would require an 20″Hx12″W fixture.) Post lights should be as large or larger than the lights at your front door.

outdoor1

Style: Outdoor lights should be compatible with the look and lines of a house. Door lamps should be approximately one fifth the height and width of the doorway, including trim. (For example a 100″ high by 60″ wide entrance would require an 20″Hx12″W fixture.) Open bottom fixtures are better for down lighting an area, and glass-topped lanterns are the better choice for accenting architectural elements above and around the door.

Post lights should be as large or larger than the lights at your front door.

Wall-mounted fixtures with arms or brackets can fit into tighter spots in areas between moldings. Fixtures with several low wattage candle bulbs are superior to those with a single bulb since they provide more light with less glare.

Floor Lamp Guidelines

Where: Floor lamps can be used in any room. Try two to frame your entrance door in your foyer. They illuminate dark corners, provide great reading light, or can add the perfect decorative accent to a room.

Size: Some floor lamps are adjustable in height, allowing the reader to position the shade to his or her advantage. Select a floor lamp height so that the bottom of the shade falls at the eye level of the user.

Style: Floor lamps offer a very versatile lighting source. As a result of the wide variety of sizes and shapes of floor lamps available, they can also be selected purely for their decorative contribution to the space. Torchieres (lamps with upside down shades) provide an interesting alternative by focusing intense light up to illuminate the ceiling and architectural features or flood a dark corner with softer reflected light.

Wattage: Look for floor lamps with 3-way sockets to allow you to change your lighting levels for different activities.

Placement: For reading, floor lamps should be used behind or to the side of a sofa or chair, casting light directly on the work area. Floor lamps are most effective when glare is reduced by placing the bottom of the lampshade at the reader’s eye level.