Archive for January, 2009

Freshen up your home without emptying your wallet!

Looking to freshen your home without emptying your wallet?  Check out these simple ideas to keep costs low and results high.

  • Paint one wall an accent color or a deeper shade of the color you already have. If the room is long & narrow, paint a warm dark color on the short wall. Or paint the ceiling a light cool color. Or just paint the fireplace wall section an accent color. Add new lamps with that accent color.

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  • Paint a piece of furniture (such as a coffee table or 2 end tables) an accent color. Be sure to use the proper prep (ask the local hardware store for guidance).
  • Rearrange your furniture and add a new rug. Change or recover your throw pillows or try “wrapping” them with your favorite scarf.

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  • Take an existing console or end table and add a storage shelf on the bottom for baskets to hold “stuff”. Paint the shelf an accent color or use antique wood flooring. Or sell an existing piece of furniture at a consignment store and replace it with a storage piece like a mirrored furniture piece that will always go with any look you do.
  • Add inexpensive seating “stools” that can double as end tables. Paint them a fun color or distress them and “paint” with an antique wash.
  • Add accent lighting (plant lights on timers, picture lights, spotlight on sculpture or architectural feature). You will be amazed at how much accent lighting can do for a room at night! Put dimmers on all other lighting in the room.

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  • Add some interest to your walls by taking all pictures down and rearranging them in a new plan on the floor, adding short shelves made from antique molding (for collections of sculpture, colored or clear glass, candles or candlesticks), table clocks and decorative items from the kitchen that can be hung on the wall (platters or plates, containers that can hold trailing greenery, handmade bowls, etc.), and small mirrors hung from decorative chain or interesting ribbon. Try adding an open empty frame (antique ones are great) around a plate or platter (maybe even on the diagonal).
  • Add a “fun” fabric lamp shade on a plain lamp.

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  • New monogrammed towels for your bathroom (Hit the white sales!).
  • Frame your bathroom mirror with antique molding, polyurethane molding painted in an accent color, upholstery braid, or outdoor ribbon.

©Shades of Light 2008

It’s 2009! Make Your Home Shine!

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2009 is here! Now is the time to clean up, clear out and comfy up your home. Our design team has brainstormed on some simple ideas to inspire your design transformations.

Step back and decide what to keep and then make your list of what you will need to make your home sparkle like new.

Stuck with old-dated can lights? We have the perfect instant solution! Our Magic Pendant easily screws into your recessed light. We offer an assortment of hardware and glass shades to work in every décor.

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Patterns, patterns and more patterns for 2009: floral motifs, paisleys, geometrics. Some Shades of Light Products to try…

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Make the old look new. Layer an existing rug over a larger sized sisal to create a chic up to date look. Choose from our vast selection of bordered rugs to impact your existing space.

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Distinctive Kitchen Solutions November 2008

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Images show clockwise from top: Mosaic Jewel Bath Light, Petite Beaded Chandelier, Strawberry Chandelier

Country Living October 2008

08_10_country_living16″ Bell Silk Lamp Shade

Better Homes & Gardens August 2008

08_08_home_and_gardensLetter Perfect Hooked Rug

Kitchen Makeovers June 2008

08_06_kitchenmaekoversPractical Energy Star Island Light Chandelier

Country Living June 2008

08_06_country_livingAntiqued Mirrored Chest of Drawers

Kitchen and Bath Ideas May/June 2008

08_05_06_kitchenandbathItalian Lino Pendant

Hampton May/June 2008

08_05_06_hamptonBamboo Tower Chandelier

Cottage Living May/June 2008

08_05_06_cottageliving1Metal Shade Chandelier

Country Home May 2008

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All You May 2008

08_05_allyouSculptural Damask Rug

Country Living April 2008

08_04_country_livingEco-Friendly Cork Table Lamp

Cottage Living March 2008

08_03_cottagelivingGrasscloth Shade Pendant Chandelier

Coastal Living March 2008

08_03_coastallivingEco-Friendly Cork Table Lamp

Before & After: Meem’s Dining Room

Molly and Lange Meem from Richmond VA sought out our design team to transform the home they moved into 10 years earlier & never got around to decorating. Before, this dining room lacked pop & the Meem’s were ready for a fresh new look. The room was full of hand-me-down furniture and white walls - it was time to update! The couple was a lot of fun to work with and chose pieces from our popular mirrored furniture collection to transform and make it appear larger. With a little space planning, paint, hip furnishings, as well as a new rug & chandelier, we transformed this underwhelming room into a fresh & inviting space.

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Maintaining Your Rug

RUG CUSHION OR PAD

Not just for keeping your rug in place! The cushion is an important aspect of prolonging the life of your rug. The pad helps cushion the rug from the existing floor underneath to absorb the weight of traffic and to help keep the rug from breaking down. Choose the correct pad to keep the rug from slipping. Determine whether the rug will be on top of carpet or on a hard surface floor. We offer a selection of pads of each type.

PROPER CLEANING

To keep your rug in great shape, vacuum or shake it regularly. You need to get any loose dirt from the surface of the rug. Dirt and soil can work down into the base of the rug and break down the fibers. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on cleaning. When using over the counter products, all traces must be removed from the carpet after cleaning. Otherwise, they will act like a magnet and soil will attach to any trace left in the rug. We recommend professional cleaning for all rugs. We do not recommend protective coatings for natural fibers. They could effect the color and destroy the fiber’s natural ability to breathe. However, protective coatings can be applied to synthetics. Our tufted wool area rugs naturally lose a bit of fuzz. This is natural, simply fetch a vacuum and groom away.

Types of Fibers

Natural

  • Wool — Soft thread sheared from a sheep’s coat.
  • Cotton — Soft fiber from the plant of the same name.
  • Silk — The soft, lustrous fiber obtained as a filament from the cocoon of the silkworm.
  • Sisal, Hemp, Coir or Cocoa — Natural fibers from plants of the same name; usually with a coarse and textured shaft.

Synthetics — man-made

  • Nylon — Resilient fiber man-made from petroleum based products; strong in construction.
  • Olefin or Polypropylene — Strong and colorfast. Great for sunny areas.
  • Polyester — Soft fiber; exceptional for cut pile.
  • Acrylic — Fiber that gives the appearance of wool; water resistant; usually found in bath carpets and rugs.
  • Blends — combination of any fibers synthetic or natural.
Rug Construction

WOVEN — Threads are loomed together by machine or hand. Examples are Hand Knotted, Flat Weaves or Rags.
Examples: Oriental, Aubusson, Kilim, Dhurrie, and Soumacks.

TUFTED — Threads are punched through a backing material by hand or machine. Surface can be looped or pile.
Examples: Hooked and Needlepoint.

BROADLOOM — Carpet construction that is made into rolls with raw unfinished edges. Can be cut and bound into rugs.
Examples: Plush, Saxonies, Textured and Berber.

Choosing the Right Rug

Choosing the right rug for an area requires planning. Home, work, play or retreat area should make a statement. If you are working with an empty area build from the foundation up. Choose the flooring first, then plan the paint, furnishing, fabrics & accessories around the floor.

  • Imagine the total look of the room or space you are creating
  • What will the area be used for
  • Area with high traffic should have a pattern in mid to darker tones to down play traffic patterns
  • A sitting area could have a lighter more fragile pattern
  • Lighter rugs will increase the perceived size of the room
  • Darker rugs will create a warmer, intimate decorum
  • Color, style & texture of the rug will set the “personality” of the room
  • Consider the existing floor & size of the area when determining the size of rug. Do you want to play down the existing floor, then get a larger rug with an overall pattern. If you want to show off the existing floor get a smaller rug in solid or tone on tone pattern

Rugs are a functional part of any room. They have many task. Protecting or hiding flaws to the existing floor, warming up the floor, creating a look and building a decorative foundation. The choices are virtually endless when it comes to selection. Our site is set up by categories of decor. If you do not see what you want, call us at 1-800-262-6612 with your request, and we will search our resources to find the match for your needs. Our team of buyers is constantly adding new patterns to stay on top of current trends and cutting edge products. We welcome the opportunity to assist you in your personal needs for that perfect rug for your decorative project.

Lighting and Electrical Glossary

AC: Alternating current: An electrical current that reverses its direction at regular intervals

Accent lighting: Lighting that focuses on a specific object or architectural feature

Ambient lighting:General lighting in a room

Amp: Measure of rate of electrical flow in a circuit

Backplate: Flat plate behind wall sconce to cover electrical box

Baffle:Waffle device used to reduce glare

Ballast: Device used to control the current and prevent overheating in a discharge lamp

Barn doors: Hinged shutters used to precisely shape the beam of a lamp

Bobeche: Decorative crystal, metal, wood, etc. “bowl” used on chandeliers and sconces, often pierced to hold crystals (originally used to catch wax dripping from candles)

Breaker box: Metal box with fuses or circuit breakers that breaks down electrical service into smaller circuits

Bus bar: Fuse box, breaker box

BX or flexible metal conduit: Bendable tubing that holds electrical lines

Candlecover: Plastic, metal, or cardboard sleeve that simulates the look of a wax candle (to conceal a socket)

Candela: Unit of light intensity (SI), roughly equivalent to 12.57 lumens

Candlepower: Luminous intensity of a light source measured in candela

Canopy: Decorative plate that goes flush to the ceiling on a chandelier or ceiling light that conceals electrical box

Chimney: Open-ended glass surround used on an oil lamp to hold lampshade

Circuit: Path of electrical flow (wiring)

Circuit breaker: Switch that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload

Check ring: Metal disk that holds candlecover or neck on a light fixture

Clip adapter: Metal bulb clip that attaches to a lampshade converting it to a shade that clips onto the bulb

Collar: Threaded ring that holds the canopy to the ceiling on a chandelier

Color rendition index: A measure of the effect of a particular kind of light bulb on a colored surface (the larger the number, the truer to the color in real sunlight; measured between 1 and 100)

Common: Dark-colored screw on an electrical switch

Conductor: Wire that carries electricity

Conduit: Rigid or flexible tubing that holds electrical wires inside

Contacts: Connection point for electrical wires

Continuity Tester: Test device for electrical circuit

Cord switch: On-off switch for a portable lamp that attaches along the cord

Current: Flow of electricity through a wire, measured in amps

DC (direct current): Electrical current that flows in only one direction, not a complete circuit

Diffuser: Translucent “shield” designed to reduce glare and filter light more evenly

Dimmer: Switch that allows you to vary the intensity of a light fixture

Discharge lamp: Light bulb which incorporates an electronic discharge through a gas or vapor

Duplex receptacle: Outlet with 2 plug-in connections

Efficacy: Lumens per watt measure of the efficiency of a light source

Electrical box: Box in the wall where electrical connections are made to fixtures and that supports fixtures

Electric meter: device that measures amount of electricity consumed

Electronic transformer:

Faceplate: Switch box or outlet cover plate

Filament: Thin tungsten wire that emits light when heated by an electrical current

Finial: Decorative item with threaded base used to secure a lampshade to a harp and “finish” the look of a table or floor lamp

Fish tape: Extending metal tape with a hook on the end used to pull wires through a wall

Fitter: Decorative rim that holds glass shades on place on a light fixture

Fixture: Any decorative electrical item that permanently affixes to a wall or ceiling

Flush mount: Light fixture that hangs flush on the ceiling

Foot switch: Device for turning a floor lamp on and off that sits on the floor and is joined to the cord

Framing projector: device that allows you to accurately control the size of the light beam

Fuse: Screw-in, plug-in, or snap-in device that interrupts electricity in case of a short or overload

Ganging: 2 or more electrical lines ending in the same switch box or receptacle

Ground wire: Wire (that carries no current) that runs from the fixture to metal attached to nonmetal material to ground the current in case of a short (Ground wire is usually bare copper or green).

GFI: Ground-fault interrupter: A sensing device that shuts down the electricity in the case of a shock hazard

Harp: Metal “U” that supports lampshade over bulb and lamp base

Harp holder: Metal “U” that connects harp to lamp base

Hot wire (live wire): Wire that carries the current to a receptacle and fixture (usually black)

Hurricane: Decorative glass surround for candle-like sockets

Illuminance: Amount of light that falls on a surface (measured in lumens per square foot)

Indirect lighting: Lighting that is reflected off a wall, ceiling, shade, etc.

Insulation: Nonconductive coating that protects electrical wires

Junction box: Connection point for wires from fixture to fixture and switch box to fixture

Kelvin (color temperature): Measure of redness or blueness of a light source (the higher the number, the warmer the color)

Kilowatt: 1000 watts (measure of electrical consumption)

Knockouts: Tabs that can be removed from electrical box or fixture to make wiring connections

Lamp: Technical name for light bulb

Loop: Threaded U-joint that attaches chain to the canopy on a chandelier

Locknut: Threaded nut used to tighten parts inside a light fixture

Louvers: Parallel slats on a lighting fixture used to prevent glare and direct light

Low-voltage: Reduction of regular household current (120 volts) to a lower voltage (usually 12-volt) using a transformer

Lumen (measured in footcandles): Measure of amount of light emitted (one lumen is the amount of light from one candle one foot away)

Magnetic transformer:

Medium base: Socket size for a regular household bulb

NEC code: National Fire Protection Association codes for wiring

Neck: Brass or decorative rod used to add space between a lamp base and the socket

Neutral wire: Wire that carries current from receptacle or fixture back to the fuse box to complete the circuit (usually white)

Outlet: Point at which electrical wire attach to fixtures, receptacles, or switches

Pendant: Light fixture that hangs from the ceiling

Polarized plug: Plug on portable lighting item with different shaped prongs to ensure that the hot and neutral wires can’t be reversed

Raceway: Exterior channel that allows wires to be run on the surface of a wall or ceiling

Rated life of bulb: Number of hours at which 50% of the bulbs will fail under standard conditions

Receptacle: Outlet that supplies power for plug-in electrical items

Reflector: Mirrored or polished surface designed to project light in a specific direction

Riser: Threaded brass rod that screws into the top of a harp to raise the lampshade

Romex cable: Romex is a common brand name for Nonmetallic (i.e. plastic) sheathing for wiring which carries hot, neutral and ground wires, both one and two circuit. It is used in dry, protected areas like stud walls, not underground. A similar cable, commonly called UF, has a heavier plastic sheathing and is suitable for underground uses, like outdoor lighting.

SAD (seasonal affective disorder): Depression that occurs in individuals due to lack of sunlight during winter months

Sconce: Light fixture that hangs on the wall

Semi-flush mount: Light fixture that hangs down from the ceiling less than 2’

Service panel: Main fuse box where electrical service enters the home

Set screw: Knurled-edge screw used to hold a glass shade tight in the fitter

Short: Spark resulting from neutral and hot wires touching each other causing a blown fuse or circuit breaker flipping to off

Silver crown bulb: Bulb with silver coating on the end to reduce glare

Single pole: Light switch in the wall where you can only cut on & off the light from that one location

Socket: Electrical component that connects to 2 electrical wires and has threads for light bulb to screw into

Socket reducer: Screw-in socket that attaches to another socket to reduce the size of the bulb base

Spider: Three top horizontal rods of a lampshade frame

Splice: Connection made by joining 2 or more wires

SPT2 wire: Technical term for lamp wiring cord

Starter: Magnetic coil that strikes an arc between electrodes when a fluorescent bulb receives electricity

Stripping: Removing insulation from electrical wires to allow a connection between wires

Three-way bulb: Bulb with 2 different wattage filaments, allowing you to turn on each separately or both together

Three-way switch: A light control switch that allows you to turn the fixture on and off from 2 different locations

Transformer: Electrical device that changes the amount of voltage in a wiring line

Magnetic Transformer: Larger & heavier transformer using copper around a steel core to step down elctricity from 120 volts to 12 volts. Requires special magnetic dimmer.

Electronic Transformer: Compact & lightweight and more efficient than magnetic transformer. Requires electronic low-voltage dimmer.

Turn knob: Brass or plastic screw-on knob used to switch a portable lamp on and off

Underwriters knot: A special kind of knot in 2 electrical wires to secure the wires from pulling out from the socket

UL: United Laboratories testing organization that issues guidelines and provides testing to ensure wiring safety

Vase cap: Brass or wood cap to cover the opening in the top of a vase when converting it to a lamp

Volt: Measure of electrical pressure in a circuit

Voltage drop: Loss of electrical current on long wiring runs

Washer: Open round disc in the center of the top horizontal rods of a lampshade

Watt: Measure of electrical power being used on a circuit (volts x amps = watts)

Wire nut: plastic-enclosed coil used to join the ends of 2 or more electrical wires

Zip cord: Electrical cord with 2 wires joined with grooved insulation between them

Lighting Techniques:

Downlighting: Light filtering downward from above casting shadows on the floor in a moonlight effect

Grazing: Positioning of a light source in a vertical direction close to a surface to highlight surface texture

Silhouetting: Light from behind to create an outlined effect of an item

Spotlighting: Highly focused beam of light

Task Lighting: Lighting that focuses light on areas where tasks are done (reading, make-up, cooking, etc.)

Uplighting: Technique of lighting an item from below, creating shadows above

Wall washing: Light up entire wall usually from at least 3’ away

Types of bulbs:

Delayed-start fluorescent tube: Type of fluorescent bulb that takes a few seconds to warm up

Fluorescent tube: A light source created by an ionization process and a coated glass tube

Halogen (quartz): Incandescent bulb filled with halogen gas to increase the intensity of the light and increase the life of the bulb

HID (high-intensity discharge): Mercury vapor, metal halide, or high-pressure sodium gases in pressurized glass container that produces light when electricity is applied

Incandescent bulb: Household bulb with a tungsten filament wire that lights when electricity flows through it

Neon: Bulb that contains an inert gas (neon) that glows when voltage is applied

Xenon: Similar to halogen but has Xenon gas and bare hands do not reduce life of the bulb

Table Lamp Solutions

Where: Unless you have provided lighting from another source, a table lamp should be placed beside each seating piece.

Size: Although table lamps on either side of a sofa need not be identical, they should have the same “visual” weight and height. The correct height for a table lamp is determined by the chair/sofa and the height of the table beside it. To avoid glare, the lamp should be tall enough for the bottom of its lampshade to reach the eye level of the person seated next to it.

Style: Designers recommend using table lamps as the principle lighting source in a room. By bringing the light down to task level, table lamps provide a warmth and intimacy unmatched by overhead fixtures.

Wattage: The average table lamp will light 40-50 square feet. You may need up to five lamps in a standard 12×20 foot living room.

Shades: The proper shade will add the finishing touch to your lamp. Bulb wattage is determined by the size of the lampshade.

Anatomy of a table lamp:

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Swing Arm Wall Lamp Solutions

Where: Swing arm wall lamps can be the perfect lighting solution when tabletop space is not available: beside beds, behind sofas, between bookshelves, over dressing tables, and even in bathrooms.

Style: Because these lamps have adjustable arms and can be hung at any height, they are excellent task lights for functions such as reading and needlework.

Wattage: Look for swing arm wall lamps that provide a variety of light levels (3-way sockets and dimmers).

Placement: Hang wall lamps so that the bottom of the shade is at eye level of the user.

Shades: Unique lampshades can give any wall lamp just the right personality for your room.

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.

Lampshade Selection “Rules”

  1. The more basic the shape of the body of the lamp, the more varied styles of shades it can take.
  2. Repeat the shape(s) in the lamp body in the shade shape; i.e., a round lamp on a square base can take a shade with a rounded top and square bottom.
  3. Always take the lamp body (not necessarily the shade) to the store to buy a new shade.
  4. Match lampshade colors to the trim color in your room and the tones in the lamp body. Don’t be afraid of black or color as an accent.
  5. Consider your wattage needs! The lampshade (not the lamp body) determines maximum wattage allowed.
  6. Consider the style of the lamp when selecting a shade. A busy lamp generally calls for a plainer shade.
  7. For DRAMA, break the rules! Try “extreme” shades! Put a deep cone shade on a short round ball base, a white shade on a beige vase, a cube shade on a stacked ball lamp, a red or black shade on a boring base shape, etc.

©2005 Ashton Harrison. All Rights Reserved.